Malta off the beaten track: Discover the quieter and more authentic side of this busy island nation

Do you recognize the 2 countries you’ll be able to reach by ferry from Sicily? Even boat travel geeks might struggle with this one. One is Tunisia – reachable from Palermo in 11 hours (within the six years I’ve lived in Sicily, I’ve still only known one one who’s ever taken that boat). The opposite is Malta.

ADVERTISEMENT

ADVERTISEMENT

Luckily for me, probably the most frequent ferry to Malta goes from my local town. Pozzallo to Valletta is a nice 1hr45 minute journey, on a catamaran mostly staffed, curiously, by people from the Philippines. With three or 4 crossings a day, Malta is quicker to achieve than most parts of mainland Italy, so I’ve visited frequently in the course of the six years I’ve been living on Sicily’s south-east coast.

On most of my trips, I’ve stayed in Valletta, Malta’s capital. An ancient fortified city stuffed with gorgeous architecture, buzzy outdoor bars and restaurants and rooftop views to die for.

What does all of that gorgeousness mean? You guessed it – it’s full of tourists.

Spend time in Valletta and you will understand why you’re often told Malta is one of the vital densely populated countries on the planet. Throughout the summer high season, it’s hard to maneuver on Valletta’s cobbled streets. While there’s plenty of fine shopping, it’s hard to enjoy it while you’re in fear of, at best, being ripped off for tourist tat and, at worst, being pickpocketed.

So, on my most up-to-date trip I made a decision to try to beat the crowds in Malta. I planned a hotel stay and itinerary that might let me experience the more authentic parts of the country, taking in Gozo, one among the islands, and Mdina, an atmospheric walled city.

Where to remain in Malta for a gaggle trip

Malta’s busiest tourist hotspots are concentrated within the south of the country – Valletta, St Paul’s Bay, St Julian’s and Sliema are all on this region, in addition to being where most visitors will arrive because of the airport.

Lots of them will take taxis or buses to the northern region for day trips to Comino and Gozo, islands home to popular spots just like the Blue Lagoon and Gozo’s many beautiful beaches.

Knowing that almost all tourists just come to Malta’s most northern tip to depart it on a ferry, I surmised that hotels there can be less oversubscribed.

I made a decision on the Riviera Spa Resort, a big adults-only hotel with views across to Comino. The property is correct in front of Marfa Jetty so we watched tourists line as much as take speed boats across to Comino – most go there looking for the Blue Lagoon.

The Riviera can be thoroughly positioned for trips to Gozo – more on that below.

One in every of the foremost reasons we selected the Riviera was for the adults-only promise. I used to be away with eight others and just about all of us had left babies or children at home. While we love our own, we didn’t wish to must hearken to other people’s screaming children.

Having gathered here from throughout Europe, our time on the Riviera revolved around long catch-ups and leisurely meals. Lurid-coloured cocktails from the poolside bar kept us hydrated while relaxing on sun loungers. With 4 restaurants and two bars to pick from, there was something to suit everyone’s tastes and budgets.

While it’s not a luxury property, Riviera was perfect for a gaggle trip because of its many services and with the ability to book it through tour firms (including Jet2 and EasyJet Holidays). There was high energy aqua aerobics and a gym for those who couldn’t miss out on their workouts. For a more relaxed begin to the day, just a few of us joined a pilates class which was expertly taught in a beautiful studio. For full rest, the on-site spa had one among the longest massage menus I’ve ever seen.

One in every of the hotel’s standout features is its staff. Coming from all around the world, they’re multilingual and seemed genuinely pleased with the newly renovated Riviera. There have been plenty of individuals to assist so, despite the hotel being busy, we were at all times helped quickly and with a smile.

I’d recommend the Riviera for group or multi-generational trips, and for anyone who wants the whole lot you possibly can need under one roof.

Mdina: Malta’s silent city

Venturing off the beaten track in Malta was price it only for our trip to Mdina (pronounced um-dee-nah). Meaning ‘fortified place’ in Arabic, this walled city on a hilltop in the course of the island has a really different feeling than anywhere else I’ve been in Malta.

At 3,000 years old, Mdina has a captivating history. It served because the nation’s capital and the seat of the Maltese nobility until the mid-Sixteenth century arrival of the Knights of St. John. Because the knights selected one other a part of Malta, Birgu, as their recent capital the Great Siege of 1565 by the Turks was directed there and never at Mdina. Under the knights and much more so under the British the importance of Mdina because the seat of power faded steadily, and what was once often called the ‘Citta Notabile’ became the ‘silent city’, almost a ghost town. Only 400 people live inside Mdina’s partitions now.

While shops, small museums and lookout points mean it’s not a ghost town, it does feel closed off and peaceful. That is partially because of there being no vehicles driving around – the cobbled streets are far too narrow for that.

We spent a stunning afternoon wandering the town’s streets, with stops to admire the gorgeous buildings or pick up a drink or an ice cream. I like to recommend arriving mid to late afternoon, especially in summer.

Because the sun gets lower, it washes the sandstone buildings with a golden glow, giving Mdina a dreamy, ethereal atmosphere.

Gozo: Top-of-the-line places in Europe for diving

Gozo has a really different feeling to the foremost island in Malta, making it an ideal alternative destination. It has been spared the event that’s overrun its neighbour. Inland is generally still countryside with small towns or villages dotted throughout.

The preservation of the land means the soil here may be very fertile and it feeds the foremost island with some foods, though most of Malta’s food is imported from Sicily. This makes it price looking for out local specialties, just like the cheese ‘gbejna’, created from sheep’s milk.

Gozo has a shocking coastline and that is where it shines for me – especially as I’m a certified scuba diver. Many European divers think they should fly to south-east Asia or the Caribbean to see reefs and marine life, not realising that Malta has world-class diving.

It has sites for everybody from beginner to advanced divers – there are many dive schools to pick from they usually’ll know where to go and when. You’ll be able to expect good visibility and mild currents in most places, though watch out in the event you’re swimming and never with a dive guide.

When you’re not into diving, the Azure Window, the Inland Sea and the Blue Hole can all be enjoyed from the beach or boats.

For sightseeing, take a look at the Ggantija Temples in Xagħra (considered one among the oldest free-standing Neolithic structures on the planet) and Ta’ Pinu Basilica in the event you’re in need of some luck – an ancient church where some imagine miracles have happened.

If you ought to visit Gozo for a day trip, Gozo Fast Ferry has frequent departures from Valletta, arriving at Mgarr in 45 minutes. When you’re on Gozo, there are public buses to get around and it’s also suitable for walking around.

Marsascala, Marsaxlokk and Birżebbuġa: Malta’s fishing villages

Fishing village probably conjures up images of a quaint harbour with the sound of seagulls overhead. While these three small towns are much quieter than Valletta and its surroundings, the harbours are still designed to draw tourists. But since Malta is hot for much of the 12 months, the bars and restaurants are a welcome pit stop for refreshments.

You’ll be able to reach all of them by bus from Valletta. They’re not too removed from the airport but when you will have a flight to catch, allow loads of time – Malta’s traffic could be brutal.

There’s not an enormous amount to do in Marsascala, Marsaxlokk and Birżebbuġa apart from wander around, discover the beaches and meet some locals

Sunday is the most effective day to go to Marsaxlokk for its famous fish market, which some say is the most effective place to purchase fish in the entire country.

Ruth Wright was a guest of the Riviera Spa Resort.